Rebecca enjoys dim sum upon arrival in Hong Kong |
In early July, I was lucky enough to visit Carolyn and Jeff
in Hong Kong on my way back to the U.S. from Slovenia, where I lived for nine
months. A first-time visitor, I didn’t know what to expect, but I knew that
they would show me a great time. I left daydreaming about when I could come
back and with an even deeper appreciation for dim sum.
1. Food
If you know me at all, you know that I love to eat. If you know me a little better, you know that I love to eat dumplings. In other words, Hong Kong was a dream come true. Less than four hours after I arrived from Slovenia, Carolyn and I lined up outside of
Tim Ho Wan, a Michelin-starred dim sum chain, scrawling our order on a piece of paper before sitting down to devour the best BBQ pork buns that have ever graced my mouth. This meal set the tone for the gastronomic bliss that was the rest of the week. From traditional egg tarts and chicken pies at Tai Cheong Bakery, to Indian food and dumplings at the cooked food market, to afternoon tea at Café Grey, to ramen at Ippudo, it was all fantastic. I didn’t have a bad meal in Hong Kong, thanks in large part to my fabulous hosts.
While Carolyn went to work in the morning, I attempted to
work at her apartment until we met up in the afternoon. Most days I was only
moderately successful, in large part because I was so distracted by the
fantastic view into the city from Jeff’s office. Thanks to the steep hills of
Hong Kong, Carolyn and Jeff’s apartment in the Mid-Levels dizzyingly peers down
into the many buildings, harbour, and bay. On a clear day (of which I was lucky
to have many), you can easily see the gorgeous mountains that surround the
city, which makes the view all the more stunning. The staggered construction of
incredibly tall, narrow, and tightly packed buildings down the slope of Hong
Kong makes for a truly surreal sight. For an even more picturesque look at the
city, we rode a Green Mini Bus up to Victoria Peak for a nice walk amidst the
greenery and a look at the bizarre Peak Tower, which looks down over the city. And
perhaps the most breathtaking view came from our cable-car adventure to the Tian
Tan Buddha.
Taking in the view from the Peak Circle Walk |
3. Public
Transportation
To my confusion and delight, Carolyn
A selfie in the back of a Green Mini-Bus |
handed me a card that read “Octopus” when she met me at the airport. I was happy to take it just
because of its name, but it was also my ticket to nearly every kind of public
transportation the city offers. Double-decker trams, double-decker buses, green
mini-buses, and the MTR all accept the Octopus card. Only the mysterious red mini bus doesn't take Octopus.
Between living in New York City and traveling around Europe this past year,
I’ve come to really appreciate good public transportation (and the challenge of
navigating it in new places). Hong Kong was so much fun in this department. Though
to be honest, I didn’t have to navigate anything thanks to my fearless leader. I
think the quirky double-decker tram was my favorite, with the green mini bus
coming in at a close second. You have to respect a tiny bus that will only stop
if you yell at the driver, don’t you?
4. Markets
Hong Kong’s myriad outdoor and indoor market offerings run
the gamut from tacky plastic souvenirs to unidentifiable dried sea creatures to
delicious hot food. The cooked food market was probably my favorite. Also
called cooked food centres, these indoor markets tucked into massive buildings
house food vendors who used to operate dai pai dongs, which are unlicensed
street food stalls. A few remain in Hong Kong, but most have been chased inside
to these cooked food markets thanks to the government’s licensing requirements.
From what I understand, some harbor nostalgia for the outdoor stalls, but given
Hong Kong’s sauna-like heat in July, I didn’t mind going inside to explore the
cooked food options. We weren’t able to visit Carolyn’s favorite dumpling stand
(where she recently accidentally bought 72 dumplings in an ordering mishap; I
didn’t understand what the problem was), but I did try another dumpling stand
and some insanely delicious Indian food, washed down with a fresh lime soda.
The hodgepodge of tables and chairs, my lack of Cantonese, and generally
feeling over-stimulated by the many options was pretty bewildering in the best
possible way. I also enjoyed Stanley market, in large part because of the great
bus ride we took over the top of the peak from the most densely populated part
of Hong Kong. My one regret of the week is being too exhausted to make it to
Hong Kong’s night market in “Little Thailand,” but now I have an excuse to go
back.
Papier-mâché Pandas at PMQ |
5. Mountains
As I already mentioned, the mountains make for an incredible
backdrop when gazing out from the midst of the city. It’s incredible to see
such lush, green, undeveloped masses of land surrounding the crazy concrete
mass that is Hong Kong. While walking around the Peak with Carolyn, I was
struck by the feeling that I had just been magically airlifted out of the city
streets into the jungle. The contrast between the two is palpable. Our trip to
the Tian Tan Buddha and Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island offered some of the
best mountain views. We traveled up from the Tung Chung MTR station in a cable
car with a clear floor (not recommended if you’re afraid of heights), which
gave us a good look at a hiking trail up the mountain for the slightly more adventurous
Buddha visitors. I hope to try it out when I visit again—but not in the summer.
Views of Lantau Island and the South China Sea |
Sure looks like it was a great stop on the way to NYC. We're delighted you had such a good time in Hong Kong. Now it's time to think about when & how you can get back for visit # 2. In the meantime, enjoy the Big Apple!
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